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Making process
Farming and Collection of Cotton
Farming and Collection of Cotton
Farming and Collection of Cotton
Hand-picking of local cottons as pods are small and at variable heights. Though the fiber is short stapled it's highly irregular tubular fibers are conducive for hand-spinning.
Combing
Farming and Collection of Cotton
Farming and Collection of Cotton
Combing away of fibres from cotton seed with fish jaw bone/comb.
Deseeding
Farming and Collection of Cotton
Deseeding
Separation of seed from fibre with metal rolling pin. Unbroken seeds are used for next planting and broken seeds are sold at half the cost of cotton pod as high protein animal feed to local animal herders.
Carding
Rolling of sliver
Deseeding
Carding with bow brings all fibres in alignment.
Rolling of sliver
Rolling of sliver
Rolling of sliver
Rolling of carded fibres into slivers with central gap over wooden pin so that fibres can be drawn from center for hand-spinning.
Spinning
Rolling of sliver
Rolling of sliver
Hand-spinning on traditional spinning wheel with each sliver held between palm leaf so that even the heat of the hand does not hold back/press the fibres for drawing into yarn.
Measuring of each metre
Measuring of each metre
Measuring of each metre
Measuring of yarn into meter lengths so that irregularities in spinning can be detected/checked before preparation of hank.
Weighing the hank
Measuring of each metre
Measuring of each metre
The calculation of count/fineness is determine by the number of thousand meter hanks that makeup a kilogram of yarn. 100s count means a hundred thousand meter length make one kilogram.
Dyeing
Setting up the loom
Brush sizing
Dyeing of yarn in vat or other azo free or natural dyes is carried out by families of dyers.
Brush sizing
Setting up the loom
Brush sizing
The warp is layed-out without metallic gold/silver yarns as they do not require rice starch sizing with brush moving in single direction to ensure settling of all surface fibers and even shrinkage of yarn to facilitate weaving.
Setting up the loom
Setting up the loom
Weaving with three shuttles
Joining of new warp to threads through reed and heald before weaving can start.
Weaving with three shuttles
Weaving with three shuttles
Weaving with three shuttles
With three shuttle weaving, the weaver can achieve pure contrast colors in borders and body with innumerable serrated edge patterns.
Inlay pattern weaving
Weaving with three shuttles
Inlay pattern weaving
Three pairs of hands can be seen here working in unition on inlay patterns that can change form, scale and direction at will, referred to as Jamdani.
Hand reeling of Silk
Indian Silks
Hand reeled varieties
Mechanised reeling - Handreeling
Making of Zari
Silver Wire
Drawn to specific thickness- flat, round or spiral
Wrapping over cotton/ silk core
Gold bath- if required