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excerpts of the Dance theatre rendering of textile processes

From the seed

Spinning

Warping

Dyeing

Draping

Making process

Farming and Collection of Cotton

Farming and Collection of Cotton

Farming and Collection of Cotton

Hand-picking of local cottons as pods are small and at variable heights. Though the fiber is short stapled it's highly irregular tubular fibers are conducive for hand-spinning.

Combing

Farming and Collection of Cotton

Farming and Collection of Cotton

Combing away of fibres from cotton seed with fish jaw bone/comb.

Deseeding

Farming and Collection of Cotton

Deseeding

Separation of seed from fibre with metal rolling pin. Unbroken seeds are used for next planting and broken seeds are sold at half the cost of cotton pod as high protein animal feed to local animal herders.  

Carding

Rolling of sliver

Deseeding

Carding with bow brings all fibres in alignment.

Rolling of sliver

Rolling of sliver

Rolling of sliver

Rolling of carded fibres into slivers with central gap over wooden pin so that fibres can be drawn from center for hand-spinning.

Spinning

Rolling of sliver

Rolling of sliver

Hand-spinning on traditional spinning wheel with each sliver held between palm leaf so that even the heat of the hand does not hold back/press the fibres for drawing into yarn.

Measuring of each metre

Measuring of each metre

Measuring of each metre

Measuring of yarn into meter lengths so that irregularities in spinning can be detected/checked before preparation of hank.

Weighing the hank

Measuring of each metre

Measuring of each metre

The calculation of count/fineness is determine by the number of thousand meter hanks that makeup a kilogram of yarn. 100s count means a hundred thousand meter length make one kilogram.

Dyeing

Setting up the loom

Brush sizing

Dyeing of yarn in vat or other azo free or natural dyes is carried out by families of dyers.

Brush sizing

Setting up the loom

Brush sizing

The warp is layed-out without metallic gold/silver yarns as they do not require rice starch sizing with brush moving in single direction to ensure settling of all surface fibers and even shrinkage of yarn to facilitate weaving.

Setting up the loom

Setting up the loom

Weaving with three shuttles

Joining of new warp to threads through reed and heald before weaving can start.

Weaving with three shuttles

Weaving with three shuttles

Weaving with three shuttles

With three shuttle weaving, the weaver can achieve pure contrast colors in borders and body with innumerable serrated edge patterns.

Inlay pattern weaving

Weaving with three shuttles

Inlay pattern weaving

Three pairs of hands can be seen here working in unition on inlay patterns that can change form, scale and direction at will, referred to as Jamdani.

Hand reeling of Silk

Indian Silks

Hand reeled varieties

Mechanised reeling - Handreeling

making of zari

Silver Wire

Drawn to specific thickness- flat, round or spiral

Wrapping over cotton/ silk core

Gold bath- if required

Hanks of metallic yarn/ zari

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